:root {
 --color-bg: #FAFAF7;
 --color-surface: #F0E9DF;
 --color-primary: #1A6FB5;
 --color-primary-dark: #0D4A7A;
 --color-accent: #C4573A;
 --color-accent-warm: #D4A037;
 --color-text: #2C2C2C;
 --color-text-secondary: #6B6B6B;
 --color-text-inverse: #FFFFFF;
 --font-heading: 'Playfair Display', Georgia, serif;
 --font-body: 'Lato', -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, sans-serif;
 --fs-hero: clamp(2.8rem, 10vw, 6rem);
 --fs-h1: clamp(2rem, 6vw, 3.5rem);
 --fs-h2: clamp(1.5rem, 3.5vw, 2rem);
 --fs-h3: clamp(1.2rem, 2.5vw, 1.4rem);
 --fs-body: clamp(1rem, 2.5vw, 1.125rem);
 --fs-small: clamp(0.8rem, 2vw, 0.875rem);
 --radius: 12px;
 --radius-sm: 8px;
 --shadow: 0 2px 12px rgba(0,0,0,0.08);
 --shadow-hover: 0 12px 32px rgba(0,0,0,0.15);
 --transition: 0.3s cubic-bezier(0.4, 0, 0.2, 1);
}
.skip-to-content {
 position: absolute;
 top: -100px;
 left: 0;
 background: var(--color-primary);
 color: white;
 padding: 0.5rem 1rem;
 text-decoration: none;
 font-weight: bold;
 z-index: 10000;
}
.skip-to-content:focus {
 top: 0;
}
a:focus-visible,
button:focus-visible,
input:focus-visible,
.nav-toggle-label:focus-visible {
 outline: 3px solid var(--color-primary);
 outline-offset: 2px;
}
.card:focus-visible {
 outline: 3px solid var(--color-primary);
 outline-offset: 4px;
}
.sr-only {
 position: absolute;
 width: 1px;
 height: 1px;
 padding: 0;
 margin: -1px;
 overflow: hidden;
 clip: rect(0, 0, 0, 0);
 white-space: nowrap;
 border: 0;
}
*, *::before, *::after { box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
html {
 scroll-behavior: smooth;
 -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%;
}
body {
 font-family: var(--font-body);
 font-size: var(--fs-body);
 line-height: 1.65;
 color: var(--color-text);
 background: var(--color-bg);
 overflow-x: hidden;
}
a { color: var(--color-primary); text-decoration: none; transition: color var(--transition); }
a:hover { color: var(--color-accent); }
img { max-width: 100%; height: auto; display: block; }
.progress-bar {
 position: fixed;
 top: 0; left: 0;
 height: 3px;
 width: 0;
 background: linear-gradient(90deg, var(--color-primary), var(--color-accent));
 z-index: 1000;
 transition: width 0.1s linear;
}
.site-header {
 position: sticky;
 top: 0;
 z-index: 900;
 background: rgba(250, 250, 247, 0.85);
 backdrop-filter: blur(12px);
 -webkit-backdrop-filter: blur(12px);
 border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(0,0,0,0.06);
 transition: background var(--transition), box-shadow var(--transition);
}
.site-header.scrolled {
 background: rgba(250, 250, 247, 0.95);
 box-shadow: 0 2px 20px rgba(0,0,0,0.08);
}
.header-inner {
 max-width: 1200px;
 margin: 0 auto;
 padding: 0 20px;
 height: 64px;
 display: flex;
 align-items: center;
 justify-content: space-between;
}
.site-logo {
 font-family: var(--font-heading);
 font-size: 1.3rem;
 font-weight: 900;
 color: var(--color-text);
 letter-spacing: -0.02em;
}
.site-logo span {
 color: var(--color-primary);
}
.site-logo:hover { color: var(--color-text); }
.nav-toggle { display: none; }
.nav-toggle-label {
 display: flex;
 align-items: center;
 justify-content: center;
 width: 44px;
 height: 44px;
 cursor: pointer;
 z-index: 1001;
}
.nav-toggle-label span,
.nav-toggle-label span::before,
.nav-toggle-label span::after {
 display: block;
 width: 24px;
 height: 2px;
 background: var(--color-text);
 border-radius: 2px;
 transition: all var(--transition);
 position: relative;
}
.nav-toggle-label span::before,
.nav-toggle-label span::after {
 content: '';
 position: absolute;
 left: 0;
 width: 100%;
}
.nav-toggle-label span::before { top: -7px; }
.nav-toggle-label span::after { top: 7px; }
.nav-toggle:checked + .nav-toggle-label span { background: transparent; }
.nav-toggle:checked + .nav-toggle-label span::before { top: 0; transform: rotate(45deg); }
.nav-toggle:checked + .nav-toggle-label span::after { top: 0; transform: rotate(-45deg); }
.site-nav {
 position: fixed;
 top: 0; right: 0;
 width: 80vw;
 max-width: 320px;
 height: 100vh;
 background: var(--color-primary-dark);
 transform: translateX(100%);
 transition: transform var(--transition);
 z-index: 999;
 padding: 100px 40px 40px;
}
.nav-toggle:checked ~ .site-nav {
 transform: translateX(0);
}
.site-nav ul { list-style: none; }
.site-nav li { margin-bottom: 8px; }
.site-nav a {
 color: var(--color-text-inverse);
 font-size: 1.2rem;
 font-weight: 700;
 display: block;
 padding: 12px 0;
 border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.1);
 transition: padding-left var(--transition);
}
.site-nav a:hover {
 color: var(--color-accent-warm);
 padding-left: 8px;
}
@media (min-width: 768px) {
 .nav-toggle-label { display: none; }
 .site-nav {
 position: static;
 width: auto;
 max-width: none;
 height: auto;
 background: none;
 transform: none;
 padding: 0;
 }
 .site-nav ul {
 display: flex;
 gap: 2rem;
 }
 .site-nav li { margin-bottom: 0; }
 .site-nav a {
 color: var(--color-text-secondary);
 font-size: var(--fs-small);
 font-weight: 700;
 text-transform: uppercase;
 letter-spacing: 0.05em;
 padding: 8px 0;
 border-bottom: 2px solid transparent;
 }
 .site-nav a:hover {
 color: var(--color-primary);
 padding-left: 0;
 border-bottom-color: var(--color-primary);
 }
}
.hero {
 position: relative;
 min-height: 100vh;
 min-height: 100svh;
 display: flex;
 align-items: flex-end;
 justify-content: center;
 padding: 80px 24px;
 background-color: #0D4A7A;
 overflow: hidden;
}
.hero-img {
 position: absolute;
 inset: 0;
 width: 100%;
 height: 100%;
 object-fit: cover;
 object-position: center;
 z-index: 0;
}
.hero-overlay {
 position: absolute;
 inset: 0;
 background: linear-gradient(to top, rgba(0,0,0,0.5) 0%, rgba(0,0,0,0.1) 50%, transparent 100%);
}
.hero-content {
 position: relative;
 z-index: 1;
 text-align: center;
 max-width: 700px;
}
.hero-title {
 font-family: var(--font-heading);
 font-size: var(--fs-hero);
 font-weight: 900;
 color: var(--color-text-inverse);
 line-height: 1.05;
 margin-bottom: 20px;
 text-shadow: 0 2px 30px rgba(0,0,0,0.3);
}
.hero-tagline {
 font-size: clamp(1rem, 2.5vw, 1.25rem);
 color: rgba(255,255,255,0.9);
 line-height: 1.5;
 margin-bottom: 32px;
 font-weight: 400;
}
.hero-cta {
 display: inline-block;
 padding: 16px 40px;
 border: 2px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.8);
 border-radius: 50px;
 color: var(--color-text-inverse);
 font-weight: 700;
 font-size: 1rem;
 text-transform: uppercase;
 letter-spacing: 0.1em;
 transition: all var(--transition);
}
.hero-cta:hover {
 background: var(--color-text-inverse);
 color: var(--color-primary-dark);
 border-color: var(--color-text-inverse);
 transform: translateY(-2px);
 box-shadow: 0 8px 24px rgba(0,0,0,0.2);
}
.trips-section {
 padding: 0 0 80px;
}
.filter-bar {
 position: sticky;
 top: 64px;
 z-index: 800;
 background: var(--color-bg);
 border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(0,0,0,0.06);
 padding: 16px 0;
}
.filter-scroll {
 display: flex;
 gap: 8px;
 padding: 0 20px;
 overflow-x: auto;
 scroll-snap-type: x mandatory;
 scrollbar-width: none;
 max-width: 1200px;
 margin: 0 auto;
}
.filter-scroll::-webkit-scrollbar { display: none; }
.filter-btn {
 flex-shrink: 0;
 scroll-snap-align: start;
 padding: 10px 20px;
 border: 1.5px solid rgba(0,0,0,0.12);
 border-radius: 50px;
 background: transparent;
 color: var(--color-text-secondary);
 font-family: var(--font-body);
 font-size: var(--fs-small);
 font-weight: 700;
 cursor: pointer;
 transition: all var(--transition);
 white-space: nowrap;
}
.filter-btn:hover {
 border-color: var(--color-primary);
 color: var(--color-primary);
}
.filter-btn.active {
 background: var(--color-primary);
 border-color: var(--color-primary);
 color: var(--color-text-inverse);
}
.card-grid {
 display: grid;
 grid-template-columns: 1fr;
 gap: 24px;
 padding: 32px 20px;
 max-width: 1200px;
 margin: 0 auto;
}
@media (min-width: 640px) {
 .card-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); }
}
@media (min-width: 1024px) {
 .card-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); }
 .card-grid .card:first-child {
 grid-column: span 2;
 }
 .card-grid .card:first-child .card-title {
 font-size: var(--fs-h2);
 }
}
.card {
 display: block;
 border-radius: var(--radius);
 overflow: hidden;
 background: var(--color-text-inverse);
 box-shadow: var(--shadow);
 transition: transform var(--transition), box-shadow var(--transition);
 text-decoration: none;
 color: inherit;
}
.card:hover {
 transform: translateY(-6px);
 box-shadow: var(--shadow-hover);
 color: inherit;
}
.card-image {
 position: relative;
 aspect-ratio: 16 / 10;
 display: flex;
 align-items: flex-end;
 padding: 20px;
 overflow: hidden;
}
.card-image .card-img {
 position: absolute;
 inset: 0;
 width: 100%;
 height: 100%;
 object-fit: cover;
 z-index: 0;
}
.card-image-overlay {
 position: absolute;
 inset: 0;
 background: linear-gradient(to top, rgba(0,0,0,0.6) 0%, rgba(0,0,0,0.1) 50%, transparent 100%);
 transition: opacity var(--transition);
 z-index: 1;
}
.card:hover .card-image-overlay {
 opacity: 0.8;
}
.card-category {
 position: absolute;
 top: 16px;
 left: 16px;
 padding: 4px 12px;
 background: rgba(0,0,0,0.3);
 backdrop-filter: blur(8px);
 border-radius: 50px;
 color: var(--color-text-inverse);
 font-size: 0.7rem;
 font-weight: 700;
 text-transform: uppercase;
 letter-spacing: 0.08em;
 z-index: 3;
}
.card-title {
 position: relative;
 z-index: 3;
 font-family: var(--font-heading);
 font-size: var(--fs-h3);
 font-weight: 700;
 color: var(--color-text-inverse);
 line-height: 1.2;
 text-shadow: 0 1px 8px rgba(0,0,0,0.3);
}
.card-body {
 padding: 16px 20px 20px;
}
.card--with-tour {
 display: flex;
 flex-direction: column;
}
.card--with-tour .card-link-wrap {
 display: block;
 text-decoration: none;
 color: inherit;
 flex: 1;
}
.card--with-tour .card-link-wrap:hover .card-image-overlay {
 opacity: 0.8;
}
.card--with-tour .card-link-wrap:hover {
 color: inherit;
}
.card-tour-embed {
 display: flex;
 align-items: center;
 gap: 12px;
 padding: 12px 16px;
 border-top: 1px solid var(--color-border);
 text-decoration: none;
 color: inherit;
 transition: background var(--transition);
}
.card-tour-embed:hover {
 background: var(--color-surface);
 color: inherit;
}
.card-tour-embed img {
 width: 72px;
 height: 48px;
 object-fit: cover;
 border-radius: 6px;
 flex-shrink: 0;
}
.card-tour-info {
 display: flex;
 flex-direction: column;
 gap: 2px;
 min-width: 0;
}
.card-tour-label {
 font-size: 0.65rem;
 font-weight: 700;
 text-transform: uppercase;
 letter-spacing: 0.06em;
 color: var(--color-accent);
}
.card-tour-name {
 font-size: var(--fs-small);
 font-weight: 600;
 line-height: 1.3;
 overflow: hidden;
 text-overflow: ellipsis;
 white-space: nowrap;
}
.card-tour-price {
 font-size: 0.75rem;
 color: var(--color-text-secondary);
}
.card-lead {
 font-size: var(--fs-small);
 color: var(--color-text-secondary);
 line-height: 1.5;
 display: -webkit-box;
 -webkit-line-clamp: 2;
 -webkit-box-orient: vertical;
 overflow: hidden;
 margin-bottom: 12px;
}
.card-meta {
 display: flex;
 flex-wrap: wrap;
 gap: 12px;
}
.meta-item {
 font-size: 0.75rem;
 color: var(--color-text-secondary);
 font-weight: 700;
 text-transform: uppercase;
 letter-spacing: 0.04em;
}
.meta-item::before {
 content: '';
 display: inline-block;
 width: 4px;
 height: 4px;
 background: var(--color-accent-warm);
 border-radius: 50%;
 margin-right: 6px;
 vertical-align: middle;
}
.meta-item:first-child::before { display: none; }
.article-hero {
 position: relative;
 min-height: 50vh;
 display: flex;
 align-items: flex-end;
 padding: 80px 24px 48px;
 overflow: hidden;
}
.article-hero-img {
 position: absolute;
 inset: 0;
 width: 100%;
 height: 100%;
 object-fit: cover;
 object-position: center;
 z-index: 0;
}
.article-hero-overlay {
 position: absolute;
 inset: 0;
 background: linear-gradient(to top, rgba(0,0,0,0.6) 0%, rgba(0,0,0,0.15) 60%, transparent 100%);
 z-index: 1;
}
.article-hero-content {
 position: relative;
 z-index: 2;
 max-width: 800px;
 margin: 0 auto;
 width: 100%;
}
.article-category-tag {
 display: inline-block;
 padding: 6px 16px;
 background: rgba(255,255,255,0.15);
 backdrop-filter: blur(8px);
 border-radius: 50px;
 color: var(--color-text-inverse);
 font-size: 0.75rem;
 font-weight: 700;
 text-transform: uppercase;
 letter-spacing: 0.08em;
 margin-bottom: 16px;
}
.article-title {
 font-family: var(--font-heading);
 font-size: var(--fs-h1);
 font-weight: 900;
 color: var(--color-text-inverse);
 line-height: 1.1;
 margin-bottom: 16px;
 text-shadow: 0 2px 20px rgba(0,0,0,0.3);
}
.article-meta-bar {
 display: flex;
 flex-wrap: wrap;
 gap: 16px;
}
.article-meta-bar .meta-item {
 color: rgba(255,255,255,0.85);
}
.article-meta-bar .meta-item a {
 color: inherit;
 text-decoration: none;
 border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.4);
}
.article-meta-bar .meta-item a:hover {
 border-bottom-color: #fff;
}
.article-meta-bar .meta-item::before {
 background: rgba(255,255,255,0.5);
}
.article-content {
 max-width: 720px;
 margin: 0 auto;
 padding: 40px 24px 80px;
}
.article-content a {
 text-decoration: underline;
 text-decoration-color: rgba(26, 111, 181, 0.3);
 text-underline-offset: 2px;
 cursor: pointer;
 transition: color 0.2s, text-decoration-color 0.2s, background 0.2s;
 border-radius: 2px;
}
.article-content a:hover {
 color: var(--color-accent);
 text-decoration-color: var(--color-accent);
 background: rgba(196, 87, 58, 0.08);
}
.article-lead {
 font-size: clamp(1.1rem, 2.5vw, 1.25rem);
 color: var(--color-text);
 line-height: 1.6;
 font-weight: 400;
 font-style: italic;
 border-left: 3px solid var(--color-accent);
 padding-left: 20px;
 margin-bottom: 32px;
}
.article-toc {
 background: var(--color-surface);
 border-radius: var(--radius-sm);
 padding: 16px 20px;
 margin-bottom: 40px;
}
.article-toc summary {
 font-weight: 700;
 font-size: var(--fs-small);
 text-transform: uppercase;
 letter-spacing: 0.05em;
 color: var(--color-text-secondary);
 cursor: pointer;
 list-style: none;
}
.article-toc summary::-webkit-details-marker { display: none; }
.article-toc summary::before {
 content: '+ ';
 font-weight: 400;
}
.article-toc[open] summary::before {
 content: '- ';
}
.article-toc nav {
 margin-top: 12px;
}
.article-toc ul {
 list-style: none;
 display: flex;
 flex-direction: column;
 gap: 4px;
}
.article-toc a {
 display: block;
 padding: 6px 0;
 font-size: var(--fs-small);
 color: var(--color-primary);
 border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(0,0,0,0.04);
}
.article-toc a:hover {
 color: var(--color-accent);
}
.article-body h2 {
 font-family: var(--font-heading);
 font-size: var(--fs-h2);
 font-weight: 700;
 color: var(--color-text);
 margin-top: 56px;
 margin-bottom: 20px;
 padding-top: 24px;
 border-top: 1px solid rgba(0,0,0,0.06);
}
.article-body h2:first-child {
 margin-top: 0;
 padding-top: 0;
 border-top: none;
}
.article-body h3 {
 font-family: var(--font-heading);
 font-size: var(--fs-h3);
 font-weight: 700;
 color: var(--color-text);
 margin-top: 36px;
 margin-bottom: 12px;
}
.article-body p {
 margin-bottom: 20px;
}
.article-body ul, .article-body ol {
 margin-bottom: 20px;
 padding-left: 24px;
}
.article-body li {
 margin-bottom: 8px;
}
.article-body strong {
 font-weight: 700;
 color: var(--color-text);
}
.article-body blockquote {
 border-left: 3px solid var(--color-accent);
 padding: 12px 20px;
 margin: 24px 0;
 background: var(--color-surface);
 border-radius: 0 var(--radius-sm) var(--radius-sm) 0;
 font-style: italic;
}
.article-body table {
 width: 100%;
 border-collapse: collapse;
 margin: 24px 0;
 font-size: var(--fs-small);
 display: block;
 overflow-x: auto;
 -webkit-overflow-scrolling: touch;
}
.article-body thead {
 background: var(--color-primary-dark);
 color: var(--color-text-inverse);
}
.article-body th {
 padding: 12px 16px;
 text-align: left;
 font-weight: 700;
 white-space: nowrap;
}
.article-body td {
 padding: 12px 16px;
 border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(0,0,0,0.06);
}
.article-body tbody tr:nth-child(even) {
 background: var(--color-surface);
}
.article-body tbody tr:hover {
 background: rgba(26,111,181,0.05);
}
.article-body hr {
 border: none;
 height: 1px;
 background: linear-gradient(90deg, transparent, var(--color-accent-warm), transparent);
 margin: 48px 0;
}
.article-updated {
 margin-top: 40px;
 padding-top: 16px;
 border-top: 1px solid rgba(0,0,0,0.06);
 font-size: var(--fs-small);
 color: var(--color-text-secondary);
 font-style: italic;
}
.article-inline-img {
 margin: 32px 0;
}
.article-inline-img img {
 width: 100%;
 height: auto;
 border-radius: var(--radius);
 display: block;
}
.ferry-cta {
 background: var(--color-surface);
 border-left: 3px solid var(--color-primary);
 padding: 12px 20px;
 margin: 8px 0 24px;
 border-radius: 0 var(--radius-sm) var(--radius-sm) 0;
 color: var(--color-text);
}
.ferry-cta a {
 color: var(--color-primary);
 font-weight: 700;
}
.ferry-cta a:hover {
 color: var(--color-accent);
}
.gyg-cta {
 background: var(--color-surface);
 border-left: 3px solid var(--color-primary);
 padding: 14px 20px 12px;
 margin: 8px 0 28px;
 border-radius: 0 var(--radius-sm) var(--radius-sm) 0;
}
.gyg-cta-heading {
 font-family: var(--font-heading);
 font-weight: 700;
 font-size: 0.95rem;
 margin: 0 0 8px;
 color: var(--color-heading);
}
.gyg-cta ul {
 list-style: none;
 margin: 0;
 padding: 0;
}
.gyg-cta li {
 padding: 4px 0;
 font-size: var(--fs-small);
 line-height: 1.4;
}
.gyg-cta li a {
 color: var(--color-primary);
 font-weight: 600;
}
.gyg-cta li a:hover {
 color: var(--color-accent);
}
.gyg-cta-price {
 color: var(--color-text-secondary);
 font-size: 0.85em;
}
.about-author-profile {
 display: flex;
 align-items: flex-start;
 gap: 24px;
 margin-bottom: 32px;
 padding-bottom: 24px;
 border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(0,0,0,0.06);
}
.about-author-photo {
 width: 120px;
 height: 120px;
 border-radius: 50%;
 object-fit: cover;
 flex-shrink: 0;
}
.about-author-intro h2 {
 font-family: var(--font-heading);
 font-size: var(--fs-h2);
 margin-bottom: 4px;
}
.about-author-tagline {
 color: var(--color-text-secondary);
 font-size: var(--fs-small);
 margin-bottom: 12px;
}
.about-author-social {
 display: flex;
 flex-wrap: wrap;
 gap: 12px;
}
.about-author-social a {
 font-size: var(--fs-small);
 color: var(--color-primary);
 text-decoration: none;
 padding: 4px 10px;
 border: 1px solid rgba(26,111,181,0.2);
 border-radius: 4px;
 transition: var(--transition);
}
.about-author-social a:hover {
 background: var(--color-primary);
 color: #fff;
 border-color: var(--color-primary);
}
@media (max-width: 480px) {
 .about-author-profile {
 flex-direction: column;
 align-items: center;
 text-align: center;
 }
 .about-author-social {
 justify-content: center;
 }
}
.author-box {
 display: flex;
 align-items: flex-start;
 gap: 20px;
 margin-top: 40px;
 padding: 24px;
 background: var(--color-surface);
 border-radius: var(--radius);
}
.author-box-photo {
 width: 72px;
 height: 72px;
 border-radius: 50%;
 object-fit: cover;
 flex-shrink: 0;
}
.author-box-info {
 flex: 1;
}
.author-box-name {
 font-family: var(--font-heading);
 font-size: 1.1rem;
 font-weight: 700;
 margin-bottom: 4px;
}
.author-box-name a {
 color: var(--color-text);
 text-decoration: none;
}
.author-box-name a:hover {
 color: var(--color-primary);
}
.author-box-bio {
 font-size: var(--fs-small);
 color: var(--color-text-secondary);
 line-height: 1.5;
 margin-bottom: 8px;
}
.author-box-links {
 display: flex;
 flex-wrap: wrap;
 gap: 10px;
}
.author-box-links a {
 font-size: 0.8rem;
 color: var(--color-primary);
 text-decoration: none;
}
.author-box-links a:hover {
 color: var(--color-accent);
}
@media (max-width: 480px) {
 .author-box {
 flex-direction: column;
 align-items: center;
 text-align: center;
 }
 .author-box-links {
 justify-content: center;
 }
}
.related-section {
 background: var(--color-surface);
 padding: 64px 0;
}
.related-inner {
 max-width: 1200px;
 margin: 0 auto;
 padding: 0 20px;
}
.related-heading {
 font-family: var(--font-heading);
 font-size: var(--fs-h2);
 text-align: center;
 margin-bottom: 40px;
}
.related-grid {
 display: grid;
 grid-template-columns: 1fr;
 gap: 24px;
}
@media (min-width: 640px) {
 .related-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); }
}
.site-footer {
 background: var(--color-primary-dark);
 color: rgba(255,255,255,0.7);
 padding: 48px 20px;
 text-align: center;
}
.footer-brand {
 font-family: var(--font-heading);
 font-size: 1.5rem;
 font-weight: 900;
 color: var(--color-text-inverse);
 margin-bottom: 8px;
}
.footer-tagline {
 font-size: var(--fs-small);
 margin-bottom: 24px;
}
.footer-copy {
 font-size: 0.75rem;
 opacity: 0.5;
}
.back-to-top {
 position: fixed;
 bottom: 24px;
 right: 24px;
 width: 48px;
 height: 48px;
 border-radius: 50%;
 border: none;
 background: var(--color-primary);
 color: var(--color-text-inverse);
 cursor: pointer;
 display: flex;
 align-items: center;
 justify-content: center;
 box-shadow: 0 4px 16px rgba(0,0,0,0.2);
 opacity: 0;
 transform: translateY(20px);
 transition: all var(--transition);
 z-index: 800;
}
.back-to-top.visible {
 opacity: 1;
 transform: translateY(0);
}
.back-to-top:hover {
 background: var(--color-accent);
 transform: translateY(-2px);
}
.js-loaded .reveal {
 opacity: 0;
 transform: translateY(30px);
 transition: opacity 0.6s ease, transform 0.6s ease;
}
.reveal.visible {
 opacity: 1;
 transform: translateY(0);
}
.js-loaded .card-grid .reveal:nth-child(3n+2) { transition-delay: 0.1s; }
.js-loaded .card-grid .reveal:nth-child(3n+3) { transition-delay: 0.2s; }
.card.hidden {
 display: none;
}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) {
 *, *::before, *::after {
 animation-duration: 0.01ms !important;
 transition-duration: 0.01ms !important;
 }
 .reveal { opacity: 1; transform: none; }
 html { scroll-behavior: auto; }
}
.car-rental-box {
 margin: 28px 0;
 padding: 20px 24px;
 background: linear-gradient(135deg, #0D4A7A, #1A6FB5);
 border-radius: var(--radius);
 box-shadow: 0 2px 10px rgba(13, 74, 122, 0.2);
}
.car-rental-box p {
 margin: 0;
 font-size: var(--fs-body);
 color: #FFFFFF;
}
.car-rental-box a {
 color: #FFFFFF;
 font-weight: 700;
 text-decoration: none;
 background: rgba(255,255,255,0.15);
 padding: 2px 6px;
 border-radius: 4px;
 transition: background 0.2s;
}
.car-rental-box a:hover {
 background: rgba(255,255,255,0.35);
}
.sister-sites-box {
 margin: 32px 0;
 padding: 20px 24px;
 background: #f8f6f0;
 border-left: 4px solid #C4956A;
 border-radius: var(--radius);
}
.sister-sites-heading {
 margin: 0 0 8px 0;
 font-weight: 700;
 font-size: 1.05em;
 color: #8B5E3C;
}
.sister-sites-box p {
 margin: 0 0 10px 0;
 font-size: var(--fs-body);
 color: #444;
}
.sister-sites-box ul {
 margin: 0;
 padding: 0 0 0 18px;
 line-height: 1.8;
}
.sister-sites-box li {
 margin-bottom: 4px;
}
.sister-sites-box a {
 color: #1A6FB5;
 font-weight: 600;
 text-decoration: none;
}
.sister-sites-box a:hover {
 text-decoration: underline;
}
.cross-site-link {
 font-style: italic;
 color: #555;
}
.tour-recs {
 margin: 40px 0;
 padding: 28px 24px 24px;
 background: var(--color-surface);
 border-radius: var(--radius);
 border: 1px solid rgba(0,0,0,0.04);
}
.tour-recs-heading {
 font-family: var(--font-heading);
 font-size: var(--fs-h3);
 font-weight: 700;
 color: var(--color-text);
 margin-bottom: 20px;
}
.tour-recs-grid {
 display: grid;
 grid-template-columns: 1fr;
 gap: 16px;
}
@media (min-width: 540px) {
 .tour-recs-grid {
 grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(200px, 1fr));
 }
}
.tour-card {
 display: flex;
 flex-direction: column;
 background: var(--color-bg);
 border-radius: var(--radius-sm);
 overflow: hidden;
 box-shadow: 0 1px 6px rgba(0,0,0,0.06);
 transition: transform var(--transition), box-shadow var(--transition);
 text-decoration: none;
 color: inherit;
}
.tour-card:hover {
 transform: translateY(-3px);
 box-shadow: var(--shadow-hover);
 color: inherit;
}
.tour-card-img {
 position: relative;
 aspect-ratio: 3 / 2;
 overflow: hidden;
 display: flex;
 align-items: center;
 justify-content: center;
}
.tour-card-img img {
 width: 100%;
 height: 100%;
 object-fit: cover;
 transition: transform var(--transition);
}
.tour-card:hover .tour-card-img img {
 transform: scale(1.04);
}
.tour-card-badge {
 font-size: 0.7rem;
 font-weight: 700;
 text-transform: uppercase;
 letter-spacing: 0.08em;
 color: rgba(255,255,255,0.85);
 padding: 4px 12px;
 background: rgba(0,0,0,0.2);
 border-radius: 50px;
}
.tour-card-body {
 padding: 14px 16px 16px;
 display: flex;
 flex-direction: column;
 flex: 1;
}
.tour-card-name {
 font-size: var(--fs-small);
 font-weight: 700;
 color: var(--color-primary);
 line-height: 1.35;
 margin-bottom: 8px;
 display: -webkit-box;
 -webkit-line-clamp: 2;
 -webkit-box-orient: vertical;
 overflow: hidden;
}
.tour-card:hover .tour-card-name {
 color: var(--color-accent);
}
.tour-card-meta {
 display: flex;
 flex-wrap: wrap;
 gap: 12px;
 margin-top: auto;
 font-size: 0.75rem;
 color: var(--color-text-secondary);
}
.tour-card-price {
 font-weight: 700;
 color: var(--color-accent);
}
.tour-card-duration {
 font-weight: 400;
}
.tour-rec-single {
 margin: 1rem 0 2.2rem 0;
}
.tour-card-wide {
 display: flex;
 align-items: stretch;
 background: var(--color-surface);
 border-radius: var(--radius);
 overflow: hidden;
 text-decoration: none;
 color: inherit;
 box-shadow: 0 2px 8px rgba(0,0,0,0.07);
 transition: box-shadow var(--transition), transform var(--transition);
}
.tour-card-wide:hover {
 box-shadow: var(--shadow-hover);
 transform: translateY(-2px);
 color: inherit;
}
.tour-card-wide-img {
 flex: 0 0 220px;
 min-height: 130px;
 background-size: cover;
 background-position: center;
 position: relative;
 display: flex;
 align-items: center;
 justify-content: center;
}
.tour-card-wide-img img {
 width: 100%;
 height: 100%;
 object-fit: cover;
 display: block;
 transition: transform var(--transition);
}
.tour-card-wide:hover .tour-card-wide-img img {
 transform: scale(1.04);
}
.tour-card-wide-body {
 flex: 1;
 padding: 1rem 1.4rem;
 display: flex;
 flex-direction: column;
 justify-content: center;
}
.tour-card-wide-name {
 font-family: var(--font-heading);
 font-size: 1.05rem;
 font-weight: 700;
 color: var(--color-primary);
 margin: 0 0 0.5rem 0;
 line-height: 1.3;
}
.tour-card-wide:hover .tour-card-wide-name {
 color: var(--color-accent);
}
.tour-card-wide-meta {
 font-size: var(--fs-small);
 color: var(--color-text-secondary);
 margin: 0;
 display: flex;
 gap: 1rem;
 flex-wrap: wrap;
}
.tour-card-wide-meta .tour-card-price {
 font-weight: 700;
 color: var(--color-accent);
}
.tour-card-wide-meta .tour-card-duration {
 font-weight: 400;
}
@media (max-width: 600px) {
 .tour-card-wide {
 flex-direction: column;
 }
 .tour-card-wide-img {
 flex: none;
 height: 180px;
 }
}
.credits-hero {
 position: relative;
 min-height: 25vh;
 display: flex;
 align-items: flex-end;
 padding: 60px 24px 32px;
}
.credits-table {
 width: 100%;
 border-collapse: collapse;
 margin: 24px 0;
 font-size: var(--fs-small);
}
.credits-table th,
.credits-table td {
 padding: 10px 14px;
 text-align: left;
 border-bottom: 1px solid var(--color-border);
}
.credits-table th {
 font-weight: 700;
 background: var(--color-surface);
 color: var(--color-text);
}
.credits-table td a {
 color: var(--color-primary);
}
.credits-url {
 word-break: break-all;
 font-size: 0.75rem;
 color: var(--color-text-secondary);
}
.article-map {
 height: 320px;
 margin: 20px 0 28px;
 border-radius: var(--radius);
 overflow: hidden;
 box-shadow: var(--shadow);
 border: 1px solid rgba(0,0,0,0.08);
 z-index: 0;
}
@media (min-width: 768px) {
 .article-map { height: 380px; }
}
.map-pin {
 background: none !important;
 border: none !important;
}
.leaflet-popup-content-wrapper {
 border-radius: var(--radius-sm) !important;
 font-family: var(--font-body) !important;
 font-size: var(--fs-small) !important;
 line-height: 1.5 !important;
 box-shadow: var(--shadow-hover) !important;
}
.leaflet-popup-content {
 margin: 12px 16px !important;
 color: var(--color-text);
}
.leaflet-popup-content strong {
 font-family: var(--font-heading);
 font-size: 1rem;
 color: var(--color-accent);
 display: block;
 margin-bottom: 2px;
}
.leaflet-popup-tip {
 box-shadow: none !important;
}
.map-noscript {
 display: flex;
 align-items: center;
 justify-content: center;
 height: 100%;
 background: var(--color-surface);
 color: var(--color-text-secondary);
 font-size: var(--fs-small);
 text-align: center;
 padding: 20px;
}
.article-map--route {
 height: 380px;
 margin: 0 0 32px;
}
@media (min-width: 768px) {
 .article-map--route { height: 440px; }
}
.route-legend {
 background: rgba(255,255,255,0.92);
 backdrop-filter: blur(4px);
 padding: 8px 12px;
 border-radius: var(--radius-sm);
 box-shadow: var(--shadow);
 font-family: var(--font-body);
 font-size: 0.8rem;
 line-height: 1.6;
}
.route-legend-item {
 display: flex;
 align-items: center;
 gap: 6px;
 white-space: nowrap;
}
.route-legend-swatch {
 display: inline-block;
 width: 18px;
 height: 3px;
 border-radius: 2px;
 flex-shrink: 0;
}
.category-hero {
 position: relative;
 min-height: 30vh;
 display: flex;
 align-items: flex-end;
 padding: 80px 24px 40px;
 overflow: hidden;
}
.category-hero-overlay {
 position: absolute;
 inset: 0;
 background: linear-gradient(to top, rgba(0,0,0,0.4) 0%, transparent 100%);
 z-index: 1;
}
.category-hero-content {
 position: relative;
 z-index: 2;
 max-width: 800px;
 margin: 0 auto;
 width: 100%;
}
.category-hero-title {
 font-family: var(--font-heading);
 font-size: var(--fs-h1);
 font-weight: 900;
 color: var(--color-text-inverse);
 line-height: 1.1;
 margin-bottom: 8px;
 text-shadow: 0 2px 20px rgba(0,0,0,0.3);
}
.category-hero-count {
 color: rgba(255,255,255,0.8);
 font-size: var(--fs-body);
}
.category-content {
 max-width: 1200px;
 margin: 0 auto;
 padding: 0 20px 80px;
}
.category-intro {
 max-width: 720px;
 margin: 40px auto 40px;
 font-size: var(--fs-body);
 line-height: 1.65;
 color: var(--color-text);
}
.category-intro p {
 margin-bottom: 16px;
}
.category-backlink {
 max-width: 720px;
 margin: 48px auto 0;
 font-size: var(--fs-body);
 line-height: 1.65;
 color: var(--color-text-secondary);
 text-align: center;
}
@media print {
 .site-header, .site-footer, .filter-bar, .back-to-top,
 .progress-bar, .related-section, .article-toc, .tour-recs,
 .tour-rec-single, .article-map, .category-hero { display: none; }
 .article-hero { min-height: auto; padding: 20px; }
 .article-content { padding: 0; }
 body { font-size: 12pt; }
}

/* ---- Start-here homepage journey (guidetomilos) ---- */
.start-here {
    max-width: 860px;
    margin: 0 auto;
    padding: 3.5rem 1.5rem 1.5rem;
}
.start-here-title {
    font-size: 2rem;
    color: var(--color-primary-dark);
    margin-bottom: 0.75rem;
    text-align: center;
}
.start-here-intro {
    text-align: center;
    color: var(--color-text-secondary);
    max-width: 620px;
    margin: 0 auto 2.5rem;
    line-height: 1.6;
}
.start-here-steps {
    list-style: none;
    margin: 0;
    padding: 0;
    position: relative;
}
.start-here-steps::before {
    content: "";
    position: absolute;
    left: 21px;
    top: 10px;
    bottom: 10px;
    width: 2px;
    background: var(--color-surface);
}
.start-here-step {
    display: flex;
    gap: 1.25rem;
    padding: 0 0 2.25rem;
    position: relative;
}
.step-marker {
    flex: 0 0 44px;
    height: 44px;
    border-radius: 50%;
    background: var(--color-primary);
    color: #fff;
    font-weight: 700;
    font-size: 1.15rem;
    display: flex;
    align-items: center;
    justify-content: center;
    position: relative;
    z-index: 1;
    box-shadow: 0 0 0 4px var(--color-bg);
}
.step-title {
    font-size: 1.25rem;
    margin: 0.4rem 0 0.35rem;
    color: var(--color-text);
}
.step-title a {
    color: var(--color-primary-dark);
    text-decoration: none;
}
.step-title a:hover { text-decoration: underline; }
.step-blurb {
    color: var(--color-text-secondary);
    line-height: 1.55;
    margin: 0 0 0.6rem;
}
.step-links {
    display: flex;
    flex-wrap: wrap;
    gap: 0.5rem;
}
.step-link {
    display: inline-block;
    padding: 0.3rem 0.8rem;
    border-radius: 999px;
    background: var(--color-surface);
    color: var(--color-primary-dark);
    font-size: 0.85rem;
    text-decoration: none;
    transition: background 0.15s ease;
}
.step-link:hover { background: var(--color-accent-warm); color: var(--color-text); }
.step-link--all { font-weight: 600; }
.browse-all-title {
    text-align: center;
    font-size: 1.6rem;
    color: var(--color-primary-dark);
    margin: 0 0 1.5rem;
}
@media (max-width: 600px) {
    .start-here { padding-top: 2.5rem; }
    .start-here-steps::before { left: 17px; }
    .step-marker { flex-basis: 36px; height: 36px; font-size: 1rem; }
}

.article-inline-img figcaption {
 font-size: var(--fs-small);
 color: var(--color-text-secondary);
 font-style: italic;
 text-align: center;
 margin-top: 8px;
}

/* Ferry planner: the widget builds its card client-side into an empty div, so
   without a reserved height everything below it jumps down on load. Heights
   measured 2 Aug 2026 against the widget's OWN breakpoint -- widget.js styles
   .gftw-form as one column under 520px, which is what makes it taller:
     viewport >520px  card = 210px
     viewport  500px  card = 320px
     viewport  390px  card = 336px
     viewport  320px  card = 357px
   360px covers the narrowest case. If widget.js ever moves that 520px
   breakpoint or changes the form layout, these numbers go stale silently --
   the reservation really belongs inside the widget. */
#gft-planner {
 min-height: 210px;
}
@media (max-width: 520px) {
 #gft-planner {
  min-height: 360px;
 }
}